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Primark: clothes made by sweatshop labour in UK factory

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Submitted by mark osborn on January 12, 2009 - 5:50pm.

Spot the Scandal - Primark, the BBC and the Deportation Police

Submitted by mick duncan on January 12, 2009 - 10:33pm.

Something quite sickening that emerges out of this report is the apparent disregard of the journalists and institutions involved for the people caught in these working conditions.

I listened to the radio earlier as they talked about "illegal immigrants" working to produce knitwear for Primark and much has been made of how TNS Knitwear didn't check the immigration status of the journalist who they took on as a worker. The immigration authorities have been called in.

The net result? A bunch of people chucked out of their poorly-paid, exploitative, black market jobs - the only sort of jobs they can get due to the racist legal restrictions placed upon them. Some will go underground and try to find other, insecure, low-paid, possibly illegal work. Others may be forcibly deported from the UK to try their luck back in the even more grinding poverty they escaped from in the first place.

Meanwhile Primark may suspend orders from this company. They may audit their UK supply chain and maybe they will even chop orders from other suppliers. What seems highly unlikely is a scenario where they help raise the cash to pay for the wages deficit to ensure these workers are compensated for the illegally low pay they have received. Also unlikely is an amnesty for the victims of this scandal - the illegally low-paid workers. Also unlikely is the Ethical Trading Initiative taking any meaningful sanction against Primark or stepping in to help these workers.

So, that leaves just two groups of people / institutions who could do something - the media organisations who broke the story, possible I suppose, and us - trade unionists and campaigners, more likely. So lets step up the pressure on Primark, the media and the authorities - don't just dump these workers, play right by them. After all you have just made thousands of pounds in profits and front page news stories out of them. They are your responsibility.

"Something quite sickening

Submitted by Dan McDougall on January 22, 2009 - 2:15pm.

"Something quite sickening that emerges out of this report is the apparent disregard of the journalists and institutions involved for the people caught in these working conditions."

Mick - Your appaling comments above have been brought to my attention by a colleague whilst I am on assignment in South America and prompted me for the first time to respond to an internet forum. I'm all for intelligent discussion on the issue of labor exploitation but I'm not sure it is very clever posting ill informed and quite frankly highly defamatory comments like this (above) on the No Sweat website particularly when you have no remote command of the facts surrounding any of the investigations into Primark - making glib and pointless comments about journalists not caring about the victims of labor exploitation isn't particularly smart mate.
As a journalist I have already exposed Gap, Esprit, Primark and Otto for employing children or using unethical suppliers over the last few years and it's an issue I care deeply about - without such investigations and exposes by myself and other journalists like Karen McVeigh of the Guardian who have spent their time trailing through third world sweatshops, (do you do this on a regular basis because you seem to care strongly about the issue - or do you simply make abusive comments on websites) often in dangerous circumstances, to expose labor abuses NGO's like No Sweat or Labor Behind the Label would not be in such a strong position to negotiate with firms and lobby for change.
Any journalist I know who has been involved in investigations into labor abuses, particularly child labor, cares deeply about the issue - perhaps if you had been beaten and chased by an armed mob as you tried to get into an Indian sweatshop or seen 8 year old children chained to doors for not working hard enough then you would be slightly less quick to judge what journalists have to witness and go through to report on these issues. Next time perhaps re-consider your position when you are not in full command of the facts or at least back up your argument in an intelligent and informed manner rather than making highly defamatory comments that, if I wasn't in a good mood, would land you in serious hot water.

Dan McDougall

A measured response

Submitted by mick duncan on February 8, 2009 - 11:23pm.

Hi Dan,

I think you need to re-read my comments. I don't mention you, your intentions or integrity, or your piece. I express concern about some of the resulting coverage and the lack of concern for poor workers with insecure legal status in that coverage. I am sure you would share those concerns.

To answer your question, no I don't just spend my time making abusive comments on websites, I am a full time trade union organiser and when I get home I help with No Sweat's campaigning work. Keeps me busy.

Comradely,

Mick

The Observer's take on the story

Submitted by mick duncan on January 12, 2009 - 10:36pm.

Fashion giant acts after investigation

Dan McDougall,
The Observer,
Sunday 11 January 2009

http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2009/jan/11/primark-ethical-business-...

Britain's high street fashion giant Primark was at the centre of a storm last night over allegations that illegal immigrants paid just over half the minimum wage had been employed to make fashionable knitwear for one of the firm's bestselling ranges.

Primark announced yesterday that it had launched an inquiry after an investigation by the Observer and the BBC revealed that Manchester-based garment firm TNS Knitwear may have breached key employment and immigration laws. Breaches of the legislation could lead to fines of up to £10,000 for each illegal worker and potential prosecution for tax evasion and employment law abuses.

Primark also said it had handed material uncovered by the investigation to the UK Border Agency.

The workers, caught by an undercover journalist on a hidden camera, were allegedly being paid £3 an hour - just over half the minimum wage of £5.73 - for 12-hour days, seven days a week. Many of the garments made by the Pakistanis, Afghans and Indians over the past five months had ended up two miles away in one of the retail giant's largest and most profitable stores in Manchester's bustling Market Street.

The allegations were put to Primark this weekend, five months after an undercover investigation began into Primark's British supply chain. The investigation focused on Manchester's textile industry and in particular TNS Knitwear, which supplies 20,000 garments to the firm every week. Fashion Waves, a supplier used by TNS, was also investigated.

Employees at both TNS and Fashion Waves were caught on film admitting their illegal status in the UK. One Pakistani working on a Primark order tells how his visa had run out eight years ago, yet he had remained in Britain working under the radar of the authorities. Working conditions inside both TNS and Fashion Waves were also exposed as cramped and cold, in breach of health and safety regulations. Most dramatically, the undercover journalist working at both units captures cash-in-hand payments being made to her for gruelling hours. The money, apparently paid without the knowledge of the taxman, amounts to about £3.50 an hour, £2.20 less than the minimum wage. TNS Knitwear denies the allegations, and there was no comment from Fashion Waves.

A Primark spokesman said last night that the issue was now a matter for the authorities.

"Primark was informed this week that one of the UK factories from which it buys some knitwear has allegedly broken a number of UK employment, tax and immigration laws," he said. Primark is conducting its own investigation. Once that investigation is completed, it will decide how to proceed. Meanwhile, Primark has handed all relevant information passed to the company over to the relevant enforcement agencies so they may take action

"We are extremely concerned about the very serious allegations made against our supplier TNS Knitwear and against TNS's unauthorised subcontractor, Fashion Waves."

Meanwhile, the firm agreed last night to remove all references to the Ethical Trade Initiative, the trade body that monitors Britain's top retailers, from its 140 storefronts across England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland.

The firm, as part of an agreement made with the ETI on Friday, must also remove ethical branding from thousands of tills and its corporate website while investigations continue.

TNS Knitwear, which supplies some of Britain's most famous brand, is run by Pakistan-born Zahid Sarwar, a British citizen and TNS director. Last night it denied any wrongdoing. TNS Knitwear has made millions over the past five years from the so-called "fast fashion" phenomenon where garments are tracked and rapidly reordered to make sure they keep flying off the shelves. Sarwar's solicitors confirmed to the Observer that the company had been audited by Primark in the past six months.

Primark said yesterday that it had initiated a "timed remediation programme" following the audit. TNS was a "relatively small supplier", Primark added, saying that if the allegations proved to be true, a deliberate attempt must have been made to mislead auditors.

On Primark's website, www.ethicalprimark.com, the code of conduct reiterates the conglomerate's stance that wages and benefits paid to suppliers to their company for a standard working week must meet national legal standards or industry benchmark standards, whichever is higher. The same website states that working hours must comply with national laws and benchmark industry standards, whichever affords greater protection. The firm also claims to adhere to the ETI code of conduct.

Last night, the ETI said in a statement that it was investigating the latest scandal to hit Primark.

"We are horrified at the allegations of abuses exposed by this investigation and we are particularly concerned that they involve an ETI member. First, we have met with Primark and demanded that it provides us with a prompt, full and frank response to the allegations. Where they are substantiated, the company has a clear obligation to work with the suppliers concerned to put things right.

"Second, we have immediately launched a formal inquiry to establish whether or not there is a systematic failure on Primark's part to implement the ETI base code. If such a failure were established, this would be grounds for formal sanctions."

But last night Primark hit out at the ETI for forcing it into removing its ethical branding. A spokesman said: "Primark is surprised and disappointed with the public stance adopted by the ETI... The ETI is prejudging the situation by adopting this stance before Primark and the relevant UK authorities have even had the opportunity of investigating the allegations made about TNS, let alone report on the outcome of those investigations to the ETI."

Primark is expanding more rapidly than any other British retailer. The company is planning to expand to Portugal, Germany and the Netherlands in 2009. Meanwhile, British shoppers can expect more new stores in the UK, where Primark already operates 4.8 million sq ft of retail space across 140 stores, employing 25,000 people. Its flagship Oxford Street store sold more than one million garments in its first 10 days of trading.

Primark's parent company, Associated British Foods, which also controls Selfridges and owns Twinings, Ovaltine, Ryvita, Jordans and Patak, as well as multi-billion-pound sugar and agriculture interests, regards Primark as the jewel in its crown. Boosted by Primark's profits, the company last year posted revenues of £8.2bn.

Campaigners' concern for workers behind Primark's "UK Sweatshop"

Submitted by mick duncan on January 12, 2009 - 10:40pm.

DATE: 12th Jan 2008
CONTACT Sam Maher, 0117 944 1700/0751 751 6943

Labour Behind the Label is calling for fair treatment for workers in two Manchester-based Primark suppliers amid concerns that they may face punishment over their legal status after Primark called in the UK Border Agency to deal with the issue.

The article in yesterday's Observer[2] claimed that workers at TNS and Fashion Waves were being paid just £3 an hour and were working over 80 hours a week in a cramped and unsafe workplace. Yet despite the horrific
conditions it seems the famous high street brand would rather blame the victims than take responsibility for improving conditions.

Primark's response to the allegations has been to call in the immigration authorities, leading to serious concerns that workers could
face dismissal and deportation for speaking out to journalists.

Labour Behind the Label supports calls for the factory owner to be prosecuted under UK employment law, but believes that if deportations take place it will be difficult, if not impossible, for workers to get the back pay and compensation they deserve. Primark and their suppliers may once again evade responsibility for these serious human rights
violations while those brave enough to speak out are punished and silenced.

"The nationality and status of these workers is not the issue here," says LBL campaigner, Samantha Maher. "The real scandal is that workers in the 21st century are working in such terrible conditions. It is the companies that turn a blind eye in the name of ever bigger profits that are the culprits, not the workers trying to make a better life for
themselves and their families".

LBL is urging Primark to take positive action to support these workers in improving conditions, and say should not repeat the mistakes they made following the India child labour scandal, when they sacked the suppliers involved.

Primark should also call on the UK authorities to allow the workers to remain here to fight for their rights and should ensure workers and
unions are involved in any remediation. In other countries companies have worked with governments to legalise migrant workers found in their supply chain and Primark should consider doing the same.

According to Maher, "Primark should be going into the factory, speaking to the workers and making sure they are properly compensated, not just calling in the Border Agency to get rid of the problem. We are urging Primark and the British authorities to support these workers in seeking justice rather than punishing them for speaking out through arrest and deportation".

This new expose proves once more that Primark's claims to be an ethical retailer are little more than hollow rhetoric and Labour Behind the Label is hoping that this will be a wake up call to the company that it needs to take it's social responsibility more seriously.[4]

Primark and other high street companies need to examine why their audits are failing workers and take action to properly monitor conditions in factories in the UK and around the world. They also need to look at the
prices being paid to their suppliers to ensure that the minimum wage can be paid and legal standards can be met at every workplace.

"That these conditions can be found here in the UK, so close to Primark's head office proves once more that Primark's ethical claims are more about PR than reality," says Maher. "Its time for Primark to cut the spin and to start getting serious about improving working conditions in its supply chain."